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This glove has its thumb at the side, not in-set below the forefinger, which makes it much simpler to draft (just draw around your hand), but it's vastly fiddlier to sew the pieces (much pinning and aligning), and it stretches and puckers when the thumb moves across the palm.

I post the pattern in case someone can't get the traditional glove working, but I really don't recommend this one.

Pattern

These directions assume you will be joining this glove to a sleeve and using a wrist escape. If you're making an unattached glove, ignore the steps mentioning a sleeve, and consider placing the little-finger side on a fold to avoid the extra seam.

  1. Draw around your slightly spread hand, so you can draw to the base of the V between your fingers. Rotate your hand so the side of your little finger is fairly aligned with your arm.
  2. Make the edge of the thumb and little finger to the wrist wider by half the depth of your hand - notice that your palm is thicker than your fingers, so add more at the wrist than at the tip (blue).
  3. Cut the gusset, a strip of cloth a little wider than the depth of your fingers, and as long as the perimeter of your fingers from the thumb's tip to the tip of your little finger. The ends should be tapered to a point on its centre line along the final half inch or so, symmetrically from both edges.
  4. Unlike the rest of the suit, don't reduce the glove by a fixed percentage: the seam will be a significant amount of the fabric and should provide enough 'shrinkage'. You can shorten the fingers just a little, and flattening the tips slightly makes it easier to cut out and sew.
  5. Be particularly careful with the V between the fingers and thumb - it would be better to make it a little too deep than too shallow.
  6. Mark measurements for alignment notches where the gusset and finger bases should align.
  7. Copy the paper pattern.
  8. Attach the back-of-hand copy of the hand shape to the back-of-arm side of the sleeve, with the thumb side central and the little finger side aligned with the sleeve's side.
  9. Make sure you haven't put the back-of-hand on the front-of-arm side.
  10. Mark a vertical centre slit as shown along the arm's centre fold (as for the wrist escape).
  11. Lengthen the wrist of the front-of-hand copy of the hand shape, to form the other part of the wrist escape. The overlap should be about an inch.

Sewing

  1. Fold the wrist-escape ends of the sleeve and the front-of-hand piece, and seam each with a zig-zag.
  2. Pin the strip to the fingers, making sure the top and bottom fingers are identically placed along it, using the notches for alignment.
  3. Using a doubled backstitch (make each backwards stitch twice, over itself), baste the strip to the fingers, making the stitches more frequent where the edges curve. In particular make one stitch to either side of and one at the base of the Vs between the fingers.
  4. Sew the strip to the fingers with an overlock-style stitch if you have one, or a narrow zig-zag otherwise. Use a needle and thread to pull the bases of the Vs into the path of the machine's sewing when you spread the fingers to a straight line.
  5. Sew the front and back pieces together along the thumb side, catching all three layers of the wrist escape into that thumb seam - the two right sides of the sleeve should be together, the front-of-hand piece of the glove should be on top of both.
  6. Sew the front and back pieces together along the little finger side, catching the wrist escape together. Do this in one run with the rest of the sleeve+side seam (although if you're serging that seam, you may want to machine-sew to just past the knuckle of the little finger, to make that part of the seam less bulky).

Note that since the front of the glove is sewn on top of the sleeve inside-out, you can complete the seam enough to try the suit on, and add the front of the glove and the gussetting afterwards. Be sure to turn and seam the cuff first.


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