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Darts and Gussets

Not having a bust to work with myself, these instructions are necessarily poor. The darts and gussets should be curved, not straight. You need to experiment with a french curve. Just remember that the dart edges must be the same length, and the side seams must eventually be the same length.

Darts are triangular pieces, removed from a garment, to create additional shaping.

For instance, if you have a large bust, your bodylength along your side will be much shorter than the length measured over your bust.

  1. Draft the four-panel pattern as if you have no bust so the side seams will match. (Using this in the two or one panel pattern would result in a long seam around the body, so a gusset would be better, see next.)
  2. Cut horizontally at your bust's widest point and spread the pattern pieces by the difference between the side-length and bust-length, then draw an hour-glass shape, wide as the front of your bust as its midpoint.
  3. The sides of the hour-glass should be sewn together, top to bottom, putting a broad 'cup' into the front of the suit, and then the side-seams sewn together as normal.

Gussets are pieces added to a garment, also to create additional shaping.

A similar line of reasoning to making a dart: slash the pattern from centre front to side, and insert a losenge-shaped piece as tall as the side-length vs bust-length difference and as wide as the front of your bust, which tapers to nothing when it reaches the end of the slash.


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