Raglan sleeves are a sort of sleeve used in sportswear - the top of the sleeve continues all the way to the neck. This contrasts with dress-shirts, whose 'in-set' sleeves stop at the shoulder. The raglan sleeve is easier to draft and sew.
You will need
- A T-square - 65cm(25") or so.
- Two flexible tape measures (fabric, pvc, etc)
- A calculator (or slide-rule, or computer-calculator program, etc)
- Paper and pencil.
What to do
- Hold your T-square against your chest at underarm level, with the cross piece against the side of your ribs and the long piece as tangential to the midpoint of your chest as you can make it.
- Read the half-width of your chest - the top blue line in the picture.
- Read the half-width of your chest's flat bit, where your body starts curving away from the T-square [probably the distance between your nipples, if you're a bloke] - the bottom green line in the picture.
- Wrap one tape measure around your chest at underarm level (as when you were measuring your body), then measure vertically over your shoulder right beside your neck, from underarm line to underarm line.
- Measure around your neck, then calculate its radius by dividing this circumference by 6.282 (2π).
- Scale the measurements by 90%. (I tend not to scale the neck
circumference, to avoid having a neckline too tight.)
TORSO Length 90% chest half-width 165mm 149mm flat half-width 100mm 90mm neck circumference 406mm 365mm neck radius (=circumference/6.282) 64mm 58mm overshoulder * 400mm 360mm * Note, if you're using a different circumference and distance scaling, overshoulder is the only 'distance' scaling in this table.
- Holding the tape measure taut from the side of your neck along your arm and over the back of your hand, measure the length to your wrist with your arm out to your side, then drop your arm and measure the new length to your wrist.
- Holding one tape measure along your arm, measure around your arm at various points, keeping it straight, noting both how far around it is and how far along you're measuring. It's best to use mm rather than inches because it's much easier to work out a percentage of a length in mm.
- You should start measuring at your wrist, where you want your cuff to be; then half way to your elbow; your elbow; half way to your shoulder; and your shoulder.
- Time for another table. Scale the measurements to 90% (or whatever you've
decided), and divide the circumferences by 2. (Do both at once by multiplying
by 0.45, of course)
ARM Distance from wrist 90% increment Length around 90% /2 wrist 0mm 0mm 0mm 165mm 149mm 74mm mid forearm 127mm 114mm 114mm 228mm 205mm 103mm elbow 254mm 229mm 115mm 266mm 239mm 120mm mid upper arm 368mm 331mm 102mm 279mm 251mm 126mm shoulder 482mm 434mm 103mm 381mm 343mm 171mm